Hiking the CDT
If you are Thru Hiking the Continental Divide Trail then this comprehensive guide should answer most of your questions, inspire you to get out there and scare the crap out of you.
It includes a daily CDT Blog complete with cool photos, information on how to get to the trailheads at the northern and southern terminus, plus info on maps, apps, resupply, gear guides, permits and guidebooks. If I missed anything, let me know.
Thru Hiking the CDT was one of the toughest thing I have ever done in my life. I documented my hike as a daily journal but over time it grew into a resource for anyone else wanting to hike the trail. I recorded my CDT Hike in my daily journal which included what I was seeing and experiencing on the thru hike. Often I was too exhausted to write about the day but I persevered. This is the result.
Anyone contemplating Hiking the CDT might find it useful to read all the blog posts listed below. If after reading the blog posts you still have questions then let me know. I would be happy to help any future hiker in any way possible. Just let me know.
Continental Divide Trail Gear
I was certainly not ultra light during my hike. My Continental Divide Trail Gear List and Continental Divide Trail Gear Review will give you an idea of the what I used and how it performed. My gear is constantly being replaced as it wears out or I look to upgrade. Below I have included reviews of all the best gear available at the moment. I suggest you take the time to have a look.
All the best gear for thru hiking the Continental Divide Trail
Continental Divide Trail Documentary
Continental Divide Trail Tips
NOBO vs SOBO vs FLIP
After making the decision to backpack the CDT it is time to consider which direction to hike. There are advantages and disadvantages of Thru Hiking the CDT northbound, southbound or completing a flip style hike. There is no perfect direction for Thru Hiking the Continental Divide Trail. Southbound is the best option even though I hiked Northbound. Make up your own mind.
A northbound hiker is plagued by the possibility of late season snows in the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado. Then there are the many thunderstorms in northern New Mexico and Colorado.
Hiking in the snows of the San Juan mountains is no joke. It honestly scared the crap out of me. I am not a mountaineer. It felt more like Thru Mountaineering the CDT than Thru Hiking the CDT. I nearly set off 4 wet snow avalanches in one day it was time to bail from the mountains and take the lower Creede cutoff route.
The trail both humbled and disappointed me when I had to bail off the trail. My safety was more important to me. It is only a matter of time before a Thru Hiker dies while hiking early season in the San Juan mountains. Don’t plan on starting in Colorado before 7th June at the earliest. Be warned.
Thru Hiking the CDT northbound has several advantages that the southbound hiker does not have. It gives the hiker the opportunity to start hiking slowly. Plenty of low miles at the start to allow their body to adapt to big miles. New Mexico is also very cheap in comparison to the other states, so spending an extra night or two in a hotel to rest early on in the hike is cheaper than the other states.
CDT Northbound Start Date
Most hikers start the Continental Divide Trail in April or early May. The ideal start date for hiking the CDT Northbound would be 15th April. This would allow someone hiking the Continental Divide Trail northbound to not rush the trail and risk injury. New Mexico is the cheapest state for the whole trail. Enjoy some rest days. By starting slowly it allows the snow to melt in Colorado. It is best to start hiking
This is a successful method that many hikers take advantage of every year. The hiker starts hiking northbound in New Mexico. If Colorado has a big snow year the hiker flips north to Montana. This is a great option for hikers who lack confidence or experience hiking in snow.
The San Juan mountains of Colorado is no place to learn about hiking in snow. The hiker that flips north will have their trail legs. Then there is the long daylight hours. That combination equals the ability to make big miles.
Flipping north has the disadvantages. It will cost money to travel to Montana. Maybe your hiking buddies that you have met on the trail do not want to go with you. Worst of all is the trail will finish at some road junction somewhere rather than at a monument at the border.
Hiking the CDT Southbound
CDT Southbound hikers are also plagued with the possibility of late season snows on the passes in Glacier National Park. The hiker must start at a time when it is safe to travel but early enough to give the hiker enough time to get through Colorado before winter sets in.
CDT Southbound makes for very cold weather in Colorado. Early season winter storms in Colorado can force the hiker off the trail or worse. Imagine having to road walk around all the most amazing mountains of Colorado and Northern New Mexico because of early season snow. It is a possibility and might be a safer option than risking a hike in deep snow.
If I was Thru Hiking the CDT again I would go southbound. Why? I think the chances of a successful hike is increased. Colorado will be brutally cold which I dislike. I would gear up for the cold in Colorado. Hiking southbound means being a little more trail fit at the start of the hike in Montana. Long daylight hours should equal reasonably big miles.
CDT Southbound Start Date
Most hikers start their southbound hike from Mid June to the end of June. 15th June would be the ideal start date. The high passes in Glacier National Park will be snow covered for most people starting on this date and the trails through the Bob Marshall Wilderness will be slower going due to all the winter tree blowdowns that have not been cleared. Keep that in mind when you determine how many days food you need. It might be slower going than you think.
How Long Does it Take to Hike the Continental Divide Trail?
Most thru hikers will take 5 months to hike the Continental Divide Trail. Faster hikers who have completed other thru hikes and are confident in their ability and use ultra lightweight gear will complete the trail in 4 months. Early season snow and the early onset of winter make it almost impossible to hike this trail in 6 months or longer.
Getting to the start of the Continental Divide Trail
Getting to the Southern Terminus
There are 3 places to start or finish the CDT in the south. Antelope Wells, Crazy Cook and Columbus. The most common option to get to or from the southern terminus is to take the Amtrak train to the town of Lordsburg, New Mexico. Then take the CDTC shuttle Lordsburg to Crazy Cook.
Antelope Wells is another option. It is on Hwy 81 right at the Mexico border. A hitch or private transport would be the only viable way to get there. It is also the end or start of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route that parallels the CDT.
Columbus is just north of the Mexico border with Greyhound buses servicing the area.
Getting to the Northern Terminus
There are two places to start or finish in the north, Waterton Canada or Chief Mountain. The easiest way to get to or from the start of the trail would be to take Amtrak services to East Glacier, Montana. The expensive shuttles used to run from East Glacier to Chief Mountain. But it appears to have stopped running. At the moment it looks like hitch hiking is the only way. They used to start on May 15th and finish on September 30th which also corresponds with the dates that the USA/Canada border is open at Chief Mountain.
In Waterton, Canada there is a shuttle to Chief mountain for those returning to USA after the hike. I hitch hiked and was lucky. The Shuttle runs till mid September when the border crossing to USA is closed. Be sure to check when things close if hiking late or early in the season.
Any updates please let me know so I can update this resource. Thanks.
Trail Towns and resupply points
What towns to buy, what towns to send packages. I used a combination of buying food in town when there was a decent resupply (I am not a fussy eater) and mailing food packages to myself.
I faced a problem on the CDT. Small town USA is rather crap for providing good nutritious food. Many times a grocery store didn’t anything remotely healthy. No fruit and no vegetables. Everything was packaged crap food.
My body suffered from poor nutrition after about 2000 miles. In a desperate moment I ordered protein powder and a large box of Mountain House meals to add at least a little nutrition to my diet. It did work. Amazing how nutritious food can make a difference with energy levels. For a complete guide to resupply on the CDT, including towns, mileage, mailing addresses and phone numbers, click the link below.
Yogi’s Continental Divide Trail Handbook (Yogi’s CDT Handbook) is really the only real option for planning a hike of the CDT. Unfortunately it is showing its age. It claims to be updated every year but many including myself suspect the updates are lazily done.
Many CDT hikers in 2016 were left frustrated. However, it does have a lot of info on trail towns and planning. In that regard it is a necessary item to have. But is it worth the price? Let me know if it has improved.
A PDF or Kindle version would be a great idea, maybe one day.
CDT Permits for Glacier NP and Yellowstone NP
Glacier National Park has a reservation system for all the back country campsites. Southbound hikers have it easy. They can pre plan their arrival dates and organize permits over the phone. Northbound hikers have two options. Call ahead and book their sites or turn up at the Back Country Ranger Station at Two Medicine and arrange for permits. Both systems are not ideal but it is the only way.
Permits for Yellowstone National Park are slightly frustrating for the CDT hiker. Mostly because it can be hard to call ahead and pre plan what campsites they will be in. The most common option is to camp just outside the park and hike into the nearest back country permit office to organize permits. Northbound hikers must hike 27 miles to Grants Village. Southbound hikers must hike 18 miles to Old Faithful Village.
Continental Divide Trail Maps
There are two maps that are available for navigation on the CDT. Ley Maps and Bear Creek Maps. Both are available in digital or paper form.
My iPhone was my only form of navigation aid when I hiked the CDT in 2016. I was in the majority. Less than half the hikers bought paper maps with them, even fewer had a compass. As for the use of a dedicated GPS unit like a Garmin, I only spotted one person using one on the CDT in 2016. Smartphones are very smart nowadays.
Times are changing. Technology is changing. Using the inbuilt GPS on the phone is the future. I am one of the many that are embracing the future. But is has also created a false sense of security for many hikers. Technology can fail. Paper maps can blow away in the wind. The art of reading contour lines and navigating with a compass and map is lost among many a Thru Hiker. Not taking paper maps, a compass and a knowledge of how to use them is potentially setting up a Thru Hiker for disaster. Be warned.
To protect my technology I used a backup battery to keep things charged. More importantly I used a LifeProof Case to protect the phone. A broken phone equaled a broken hiker.
Guthook’s CDT Guide
The Bear Creek maps are used on the Guthook App. I found the App rather annoying on the CDT. It was not as good as the GutHook App I used on the PCT in 2015. But it has everything a hiker could want.
The main failing of the App was the lack of water sources listed. Unless a water source is directly on the trail it is generally not listed. Therefore water that is 1/4 mile from the trail is unknown to GutHook.
Rather annoying. Also, not all the alternates are listed on the App.
Avenza PDF Maps
This app is free, so are the Ley Maps. Download the App and search for Ley Maps CDT. Turn on the location services for the App and you have a free mapping App for the CDT.
The advantage of the Ley maps are the alternate routes and mentions of water sources not listed on GutHook. The thing with the CDT is the alternates are often times a more scenic option or a short cut on the trail. The ‘Official CDT’ is not always that scenic.
Pocket Earth PRO Offline Maps
To navigate around towns and get me off trails in emergencies or to detour around fires I use an Offline Topo called Pocket Earth Pro. I download the whole state topo map to my phone. If I need to bail off the trail, this is my go to map. It also shows hotels and restaurants ect. There are a lot of handy Wiki Travel links on the offline maps with info such as historic sites.
Some people use the Gaia App and rate it highly.
Water on the CDT
The CDT is quite a dry trail. Every state on the trail has long sections with little water. The deserts in New Mexico are dry in many places. Cattle ponds and electric windmills are the only water sources for many miles. In general I believe the water is better than on the PCT.
Many of the high ridges in Colorado also have sections of little or no water. The great basin in Wyoming is notorious for long sections of little water. The same is true for the ridge top walking in Idaho and Montana.
Suffice to say there are a lot of dry sections on the CDT. Things are not made any better by the poor mapping of water sources on GutHook. They rarely map any water that is not directly on the trail. Further info on water is contained on the CDT water report. Ley maps also lists many of the water sources.
Snow Conditions on the CDT
Hiking through the San Juan Mountains of Colorado in late May or early June is no joke. They are a serious mountain range. I felt like I was Thru Mountaineering.
A late season snow melt will mean many potentially dangerous situations. Many an experienced snow hiker has been humbled by a combination of dangerous snow, bad weather and slow travel.
Northbound hikers should consider starting into Colorado after 7th June. Every year is different but it is almost guaranteed that there will be snow to deal with.
The southbound hiker has the advantage of only really getting a short section of snow in Glacier National Park. Mainly at the Passes. 15th June is generally accepted as the safest start date SOBO.
Wildlife on the CDT
Thru Hiking the CDT puts the hiker in a position to have wildlife encounters. In 2016 two Thru Hikers where mauled by Grizzly Bears on the CDT. Both lived to continue hiking. The attacks occurred in the same area between the Wind River Range and Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. Possibly by the same bear.
The hikers, Zorro and Smiley were hiking solo and the Bears attacked with little warning. I met both these hikers while on the trail. Smiley had particularly nasty puncture wounds on his butt.
I had a Grizzly Bear walk past my tent in the same area as I slept. The following morning I discovered the bear tracks only 20 feet from the my tent. I had my food in my tent and was not carrying bear spray at the time. Luck was on my side, I had a close call. I learned my lesson and took precautions after that acts of stupidity.
Hang food and carry bear spray between The Great Basin of Wyoming and the Canadian border.
Rattlesnakes were common in New Mexico and in places in Wyoming. One attacked my GoPro while shooting some close up video! There are also Moose, Bison, Wolves, Wolverines, Mountain Lions and Lynx.
Know why you are Thru Hiking the CDT
I’ve saved one of the most important for last. The most important question a hiker of the CDT must ask themselves is the reason why they are there.
During times of hardship you will question why you are doing this to yourself. Maybe you haven’t seen another hiker for many days or survived a winter snowstorm and are running low on food with many days to hike to the nearest town.
Have a serious think about your reason to hike the trail. For me it was always about the nature, the scenery, the wildlife and the challenge of completing a hard thru hike.
Top 5 Favorite Days Thru Hiking the CDT
If I Thru Hiked the CDT again
If I were Thru Hiking the CDT again what would I do differently?
Firstly, I would prefer to be Thru Hiking the CDT southbound. It offers a better chance of success for the hiker who has a bit of trail fitness.
Secondly, I would send more food boxes with nutritious meals to some of the small towns in Idaho and Montana.
Thirdly, I would spend less time in the trail towns of Colorado, they are expensive.
And finally, I would take more neros and less zeros. I had lots of zero days in the trail towns.
Travel Insurance for Overseas Thru Hikers
Hikers traveling from overseas to hike the Continental Divide Trail will need some form of Travel Insurance. I travel a lot, in fact, travel is my life.
When I travel I always use travel insurance to protect me from potentially large medical bills. For the last several years I have exclusively used World Nomads as my preferred company for travel insurance.
They cover Thru Hiking and other adventurous activities that other companies do not cover. Also, they are reasonably priced. Click here to check their prices.
Hiking the Continental Divide Trail Blog – Pre Hike
Continental Divide Trail New Mexico
Day 1 The Beginning
Day 2 Hard Work
Day 3 Easy Miles but still hard
Day 4 I love the heat
Day 5 I survived an 80MPH Sandstorm
Day 6 When Rattlesnakes attack
Day 7 Into the Woodlands
Day 8 Gorge Walking Road Walking
Day 9 Silver City equals Pizza
Day 10 A Day of Rest
Day 11 Heavy Legs
Day 12 The Gila River
Day 13 Gila Cliff Dwellings
Day 14 Narrow Gorges and Hot Springs
Day 15 From the Gila River to the Grasslands
Day 16 Roadwalking, from lost to found
Day 17 Fatique sets in
Day 18 Disgusting Water
Day 19 Pie Town
Day 20 Pie Town to the Ranch
Day 21 Roads Storms and Clouds
Day 22 Looking Forward
Day 23 Into the Town of Grants
Day 24 Rest and Recovery
Day 25 Don’t pick up hitchhikers
Day 26 The Sport of Postholing
Day 27 I love New Mexico
Day 28 Storms and Snakes
Day 29 Outrunning the Storms
Day 30 Rest Day in Cuba
Day 31 Into the Cold Mountains
Day 32 Snowy Mountains to Red Rock Canyons
Day 33 Ghost Ranch
Day 34 Onto the Colorado Plateau
Day 35 Lost in the Snow
Day 36 Is that a Wolf
Day 37 I Just Walked Across New Mexico
Day 38-40 Rest Days in Chama
Continental Divide Trail Colorado
Day 41 Well Hello Colorado
Day 42 I’ve Never seen so much snow
Day 43 Thru Mountaineering a Day to Remember
Day 44 Fear Gets the better of me
Day 45 Escape from the mountains
Day 46-47 Pagosa Springs
Day 48 And the thunder rolls
Day 49 Altitude Sickness
Day 50 15 hours of hiking
Day 51 The retreat from the snow
Day 52 Getting to town is not easy
Day 53 Creede
Day 54 Back on the trail alone
Day 55 Finally I’m doing easier miles
Day 56 Following the Colorado Trail
Day 57 A night in a log cabin
Day 58 Monarch Pass
Day 59-61 Salida
Day 62 Sad to leave Salida
Day 63 Emotional Rollercoaster
Day 64 More Passes and No Water
Day 65 Hike Naked day
Day 66 Into Twin Lakes for a rest
Day 67 Too Tired to continue
Day 68 I just hiked 1000 miles but I’m still in pain
Day 69 From great to average
Day 70 It’s time for a rest
Day 71-76 Back on Trail
Day 77 My favourite section of trail so far
Day 78 Climbing to the highest point of the CDT
Day 79 This trail is brutal
Day 80 Down and Up of trail life
Day 81 Three beers on a hot day
Day 82-83 Back to the Mountains
Day 84 The Last of the tall peaks
Day 85 From the mountains to the plains
Day 86 The kindness of strangers
Day 87 Last Day in Colorado
Continental Divide Trail Wyoming
Day 88 Hello Wyoming
Day 89 Back on Track
Day 90 Into the Wyoming Basin
Day 91-92 Rawlins town day
Day 93 Sunsets and Moonrises
Day 94 Mustangs and Pronghorns
Day 95 1500 miles
Day 96 Grand Sunsets
Day 97 Atlantic City
Day 98 Heading into the Winds
Day 99 Hiking the Cirque of the Towers
Day 100 I’m exhausted or sick or both
Day 101 Sick on Trail
Day 102 Cryptosporidium and Wildfires
Day 103 Rest Day in Pinedale
Day 104 Feeling better back on trail
Day 105 High Glacial Mountains to Green river valleys
Day 106 Fires and flowers
Day 107 I’m hungry
Day 108 Togwotee Lodge food break
Day 109 There’s a bear in my campsite
Day 110 Hiking Yellowstone National Park
Day 111 When Grizzlies attack
Day 112 Trail Reunion
Day 113 Valley of the Geysers
Continental Divide Trail Idaho
Day 114 Hello Idaho
Day 115 Hiking the headwaters of the Missouri River
Day 116 Eating Berries
Day 117 Hiking the Montana Idaho border
Day 118 Lima town break
Day 119 No energy today
Day 120 The Montana and Idaho Rollercoaster
Day 121 Long days of rolling hills
Day 122 2000 miles plus
Day 123 Leadore Idaho
Day 124 Tired again
Day 125 Following in Lewis and Clark footsteps
Day 126 Roadwalk Detour
Day 127 Last full day in Idaho
Continental Divide Trail Montana
Day 128 Goodbye Idaho
Day 129 Solo and struggling
Day 130 Wildlife
Day 131 Running Out of Food
Day 132-133 Anaconda Ghost Town
Day 134 Still moving north
Day 135 Slow and Steady
Day 136 Change of Plans
Day 137 Trail Magic to Helena
Day 138-139 Leaving the capital of Montana
Day 140 Meeting with Friends
Day 141 Snowing
Day 142 To Lincoln
Day 143 Into the Wilderness
Day 144 A bit windy
Day 145 I bear sprayed myself
Day 146 Walking the Chinese Wall
Day 147 Hiking through a Winter Blizzard
Day 148 A cold day hiking in the snow and mud
Day 149 Brutally cold
Day 150 To East Glacier
Day 151-153 Retreat from the Mountains
Day 154 Still the wind is too strong
Day 155-158 Waiting out the bad weather
Day 159 Dangerous Snow covered Trail
Day 160 Triple Divide Pass
Day 161 Surprising a Grizzly Bear while hiking
Day 162 A Perfect Day
Day 163 Almost in Canada
Day 164 I just hiked from Mexico to Canada on the CDT
More great hiking stuff:
Where to buy all the best gear for Hiking the Continental Divide Trail:
REI.com | Moosejaw.com |Amazon | Hyperlite Mountain Gear | Backcountry.com | Campsaver | Cyclocamping | Patagonia |
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World Nomads Travel Insurance
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Enjoy the trail.
Cheers Shepherd – PCT15, CDT16, AT17, TA18-19 and still hiking.
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